The Gown Designer
"When you put on The Gown, you feel it."
Selia Yang of Selia Yang
- Photo by Brad Paris
我在我自己East Village的店鋪為客人設計晚裝，7年前有客人開始問，“你可以幫我造婚紗嗎？” 我大驚失色：“不，我不知道該怎麼做婚紗！”他們說：“這正是我為什麼要你做。”
你以前為什麼不願意涉足婚紗？
現在的我覺得，婚紗能夠比美時裝，但當時普遍的婚紗正是太過誇張、華麗，像去選美似的。我設計的婚紗是天馬行空的，但不離古典雅緻，不掩蓋新娘本身的光彩。在婚禮當天，你最不想要的就是看起來像別人。
你應該幾時開始找婚紗？
有些新娘婚禮前兩年就已經來了，卻有一個女孩在她的婚禮三個星期前來，並說：“我有點遲。我需要一件婚紗，有可能做到嗎？”我們做到了。
太早預訂是否有風險？
婚紗並非像瞬息萬變的時裝，但每天都有新的風格，如果您提前兩年預訂，你可能會錯過一些你更加想要的東西。我認為 8個月的時間已經絕對足夠。最緊要的是：享受籌備婚禮的過程。
你應該帶甚麼人去選擇婚紗呢？
太多的意見，會令你不知所措。因此，最多只帶3人：你的婚禮策劃師，朋友，或視乎你與她的關係，你的母親。如果她不斷告訴你需要減肥，你大可不須要她。男同性戀的朋友都不俗，但如果你沒有同性戀的朋友，你不必特地找一個。
有沒有新娘預計他們會減肥，特地將婚紗造得太細？
我遇過兩次這樣的情況：有個新娘訂造了婚紗之後重了二十磅，我們不得不再造一件全新的婚紗。也有一個新娘瘦了很多，要多花很多錢去改呎吋。
你看過最犀利的減肥是幾多？
有個新娘瘦了40磅，簡直是由大碼變了加細碼。當一個新娘的體重改變這麼多，我們很難完成。我們在最後階段仍然要將她的婚紗改了3次。最後，我們告訴她，“你唔可以再瘦，唔可以！”
應否將一些修改留至最後？
我讀了很多新娘dos & don'ts，我想是因為有婚紗店未能準時將婚紗交到新娘手上，所以雜誌總是說一個月前完成妳的婚紗。如果你的體重沒有大變動，這是聰明的做法。但如果你節食，你知道你的身形將要改變，這是沒有意義的。如果我們要將整件婚紗在婚禮前兩星期拆件再做，我們會向您收費。但這是可以避免的。這就是為什麼我們通常不會完成拉鍊位，因為許多新娘在最後一個月都會積極減肥。
我讀了很多新娘dos & don'ts，我想是因為有婚紗店未能準時將婚紗交到新娘手上，所以雜誌總是說一個月前完成妳的婚紗。如果你的體重沒有大變動，這是聰明的做法。但如果你節食，你知道你的身形將要改變，這是沒有意義的。如果我們要將整件婚紗在婚禮前兩星期拆件再做，我們會向您收費。但這是可以避免的。這就是為什麼我們通常不會完成拉鍊位，因為許多新娘在最後一個月都會積極減肥。
什麼裙形最能凸出女人味？
如果您的身形有曲線的話，盡量突顯您的腰圍。您可以選擇一件princess cut或mermaid裙。頭重腳輕，甚至露一點乳溝。表現妳的身材吧！如果你下圍比較大，你想避重就輕的話，選擇一件A-line或princess cut。在你的下圍比較大那裡加一點detail，會令你顯得瘦點。總的來說，我會說，將重點放在整體外觀而不是所有的小細節上。你覺得那一件最好？我的客人經常會感到困惑。他們會想，“我全部都喜歡！” 而我的最終問題會是：“好吧，但那一件婚紗讓你感覺最美麗？”這種感覺很重要。
對於新娘的配飾，您有什麼建議？
不要over-accessorize。它會帶走婚紗的光芒。在選擇婚紗時帶上您心目中的配飾，讓我們給你一些指引。我看過最漂亮的一個，是一個新娘用一條在背部垂下的項鍊，搭配她的露背婚紗。
內衣又有甚麼要求呢?
婚紗只需要一條T-back。並確保它比你平常穿的尺寸大一個size：但你不希望它太鬆。它可以陪伴妳讀出妳的誓言。千萬不要穿太細的內衣。
婚紗只需要一條T-back。並確保它比你平常穿的尺寸大一個size：但你不希望它太鬆。它可以陪伴妳讀出妳的誓言。千萬不要穿太細的內衣。
和鞋呢？
妳將要站7個小時，所以要預備第二對鞋，最好是平底或是低一點鞋跟的。並事先測試它們是否舒適，試穿它走半個鐘頭左右。
如果妳有一件家傳頭紗，你如何應如何配合？
在選擇婚紗時告訴你的設計師。不要以為不同白色的色調將可以匹配。很多時，新娘為了一件婚紗最終放棄家傳頭紗。如果真有這種情況，我們會將頭紗併入到婚紗，令它仍然存在，但不是焦點。
怎樣令妳的婚紗符合你的預算？
大多數新娘往往會犧牲其他項目，而投資更多在她們的婚紗上。他們通常會升級。他們說，他們希望花3000美元。這不是問題。我們有很多這個價錢的婚紗。不過，當他們看到我們的Couture系列，他們會突然明白 3,000元及一萬元的婚紗的分別。我無需要講太多。
是什麼讓 1萬美元的婚紗值 10,000美元？
主要是布料。我們所有的婚紗，都是用百分之百的絲綢和很多昂貴的專用布料，如Chantilly lace或紗等等。另外是合身，一件婚紗可以有超過 80件組件，所有80件組件都必須配合訂造。
如果你愛上 1萬美元的婚紗，但只有3,000元？
如果你想訂造的款式需要10,000元而又超越妳的budget，我們會給你一個類似款式而用訂造呎吋。如果您想慳一點，我們會選擇用低一級的布料。
如果你想訂造的款式需要10,000元而又超越妳的budget，我們會給你一個類似款式而用訂造呎吋。如果您想慳一點，我們會選擇用低一級的布料。
你去拿婚紗時，應該注意甚麼？
檢查婚紗，不要擔心檢查每一個細節。你投入了很多時間和金錢。你有權提出問題，並指出任何你不喜歡的地方。你應該高興地離開。但是當你帶著婚紗離開後，你就失去了投訴權。
應該怎麼檢查？
合身及感覺。是否扭曲？長度舒服嗎？如果太長，你可能會絆倒，所以一定要試行。拉鍊順暢嗎？所有的鈕妥當嗎？每一樣東西都試它，確保每個方面是十全十美的，然後將衣服好好保存。
合身及感覺。是否扭曲？長度舒服嗎？如果太長，你可能會絆倒，所以一定要試行。拉鍊順暢嗎？所有的鈕妥當嗎？每一樣東西都試它，確保每個方面是十全十美的，然後將衣服好好保存。
儀式後你應否更換婚紗？
我認為，這取決於婚紗。穿那些重重婚紗的新娘，可能要換其他。但是，如果你穿著一件舒適而且花了你許多錢的婚紗，穿它到底吧，我說。穿它到底吧！
How did you get into wedding gowns?
I had my own shop in the East Village designing cocktail dresses, and seven years ago clients started asking, "Can you make me a wedding dress?" I'd freak out, "No! I don't know how to do wedding dresses!" And they'd say, "That's exactly why I want you to do it."
Why were you so reluctant to join the bridal game?
Now I think bridal is really pushing fashion, but back then it was this gaudy, poofy, pageant look. I make very whimsical, elegant dresses that don't overshadow the woman. On your wedding day, the last thing you want is to look like somebody else.
When should you start shopping?
Some brides come in two years in advance, but just the other day a girl walked in three weeks before her wedding and said, "I'm a little late. I need a dress. Is that possible?" And we did it.
Is there a danger to booking too far ahead?
Bridal isn't as fast-changing as fashion, but new styles come out every day, and if you book two years in advance, you might miss something you'd like better. I'd say eight months is enough time to do it without stress. And that's the whole point: enjoying the journey of planning your wedding.
Who should you take to your consultation?
Too many opinions will backfire on you, so a good three people at most: a wedding planner, friends or, depending on the relationship, your mother. If she's constantly telling you that you need to lose weight, you don't need her there. A gay friend is great, but if you don't have a gay friend, you don't need to go out and find one.
Do brides order gowns too small, anticipating they'll lose weight?
I've had two situations where the bride ordered a gown, gained twenty pounds, and then the dress didn't fit and we had to make a whole new dress. I've also had brides lose a lot of weight and have to spend a lot of money on alterations.
What's the biggest weight loss you've seen?
One girl lost 40 pounds. That's like going from a large to an extra small. And it's really hard on our end when a bride loses that much weight. We altered her dress three times, and that was just in the final stages. Finally, we told her, "You cannot lose any more weight! You cannot!"
Is it a good idea to leave a few alterations to the last minute, then?
I've read a lot of bridal dos and don'ts, and I guess there are situations where a bridal house doesn't deliver the dress on time, so magazines are always saying to pick up your dress a month before. If your weight doesn't fluctuate, that's a smart thing to do. But if you're dieting and know you're going to be losing weight, it's pointless. If we have to take the whole dress apart and alter it again two weeks before the wedding—which we have done—we're going to charge you for it. And it's avoidable. That's why we usually leave the zipper undone—because for many brides, there is such a tremendous weight loss in the last month.
What silhouette works best for a very womanly figure?
If you have curves, highlight your waistline. Pick a princess cut or fitted fishtail. Top-heavy, show a little cleavage. Celebrate your curves. If you're bottom-heavy, you want to draw attention away from the area you're sensitive about with an A-line or a princess cut. Watch for the line where your hips widen—flare there and you'll look thinner. Overall, I'd say, try not to focus on all the little details but the overall look. Do you feel your best? My clients often get so confused. They're like, "I like them all!" My ultimate question to them would be, "Okay, but what dress makes you feel the prettiest?" That sensation is important.
What advice would you give brides about their accessories?
Don't overaccessorize. It takes away from the look. Bring your accessories in, and we'll give you pointers. The coolest one I saw was this necklace that dangled in the back that a bride paired with a backless dress.
What about their undergarments?
No gown should require more than a G-string. And make sure that it's one size larger than what you usually wear: You don't want to have a muffin top. You're taking your vows with the love of your life. You want to feel sexy. The last thing you need is to have underwear that's too small.
And shoes?
You're standing for seven hours; have a second pair on hand to change into, flats or a low heel. And test them out for comfort beforehand. Walk around in them for a half an hour or so.
How do you incorporate an heirloom veil?
Bring it in during the consultation and tell your designer about it. Don't just assume the shades of white will match. A lot of times, brides fall in love with a dress so much they end up chucking the veil. If that happens, we'll incorporate the piece into the dress, so it's still a contribution, but not the focal point.
What should you sacrifice about your dress to stay within your budget?
Most brides tend to sacrifice other parts of their wedding for the gown. They usually upgrade. They say they want to spend $3,000. That's not a problem. We have a lot of gowns at that price. But then they see our couture collection, and they suddenly understand the difference between a $3,000 and a $10,000 gown. I don't have to say anything.
So what makes a $10,000 gown cost $10,000?
It's mostly the fabric. All of our gowns are 100 percent silk, and we work with a lot of expensive specialty fabric, such as Chantilly lace or organza. Also, the custom fit. There can be more than 80 pieces to a gown, and all 80 pieces have to be altered to fit.
What happens if you fall in love with a $10,000 dress but have only $3,000?
If you want a custom silhouette that costs $10,000 and can't afford it, we'll get you something similar in a made-to-order range. If you need more savings, we'll go down a notch in fabric.
What should you do when you pick up the dress?
Inspect that dress, and don't feel bad about mentioning every little thing. You invested a lot of time and money. You're entitled to ask questions and point out anything that you don't like. You should walk out happy. But as soon as you leave with that dress, you've lost all right to complain.
What should you look for in the inspection?
The fit and the feel. Is it twisting? Is the length comfortable? If it's too long, you might trip, so make sure you walk around. Is the zipper working? Are the buttons all on right? Scrutinize everything, try it on, make sure every aspect is perfect, and then put the dress away—it's not going to change from the time you do an inspection and leave to the time that you wear it—and don't touch it.
Should you change out of your dress after the ceremony?
I think it depends on what kind of garment you're doing. Brides that do a heavy dress probably want to change out of it. But if you have a dress that's comfortable and you spent a fortune on it, wear it to the bitter end, I say. Wear it to the bitter end!
chinese translated by mariee
original text on http://nymag.com/weddings/planner/features/2006winter/askexpert_gown/
How did you get into wedding gowns?
I had my own shop in the East Village designing cocktail dresses, and seven years ago clients started asking, "Can you make me a wedding dress?" I'd freak out, "No! I don't know how to do wedding dresses!" And they'd say, "That's exactly why I want you to do it."
Why were you so reluctant to join the bridal game?
Now I think bridal is really pushing fashion, but back then it was this gaudy, poofy, pageant look. I make very whimsical, elegant dresses that don't overshadow the woman. On your wedding day, the last thing you want is to look like somebody else.
When should you start shopping?
Some brides come in two years in advance, but just the other day a girl walked in three weeks before her wedding and said, "I'm a little late. I need a dress. Is that possible?" And we did it.
Is there a danger to booking too far ahead?
Bridal isn't as fast-changing as fashion, but new styles come out every day, and if you book two years in advance, you might miss something you'd like better. I'd say eight months is enough time to do it without stress. And that's the whole point: enjoying the journey of planning your wedding.
Who should you take to your consultation?
Too many opinions will backfire on you, so a good three people at most: a wedding planner, friends or, depending on the relationship, your mother. If she's constantly telling you that you need to lose weight, you don't need her there. A gay friend is great, but if you don't have a gay friend, you don't need to go out and find one.
Do brides order gowns too small, anticipating they'll lose weight?
I've had two situations where the bride ordered a gown, gained twenty pounds, and then the dress didn't fit and we had to make a whole new dress. I've also had brides lose a lot of weight and have to spend a lot of money on alterations.
What's the biggest weight loss you've seen?
One girl lost 40 pounds. That's like going from a large to an extra small. And it's really hard on our end when a bride loses that much weight. We altered her dress three times, and that was just in the final stages. Finally, we told her, "You cannot lose any more weight! You cannot!"
Is it a good idea to leave a few alterations to the last minute, then?
I've read a lot of bridal dos and don'ts, and I guess there are situations where a bridal house doesn't deliver the dress on time, so magazines are always saying to pick up your dress a month before. If your weight doesn't fluctuate, that's a smart thing to do. But if you're dieting and know you're going to be losing weight, it's pointless. If we have to take the whole dress apart and alter it again two weeks before the wedding—which we have done—we're going to charge you for it. And it's avoidable. That's why we usually leave the zipper undone—because for many brides, there is such a tremendous weight loss in the last month.
What silhouette works best for a very womanly figure?
If you have curves, highlight your waistline. Pick a princess cut or fitted fishtail. Top-heavy, show a little cleavage. Celebrate your curves. If you're bottom-heavy, you want to draw attention away from the area you're sensitive about with an A-line or a princess cut. Watch for the line where your hips widen—flare there and you'll look thinner. Overall, I'd say, try not to focus on all the little details but the overall look. Do you feel your best? My clients often get so confused. They're like, "I like them all!" My ultimate question to them would be, "Okay, but what dress makes you feel the prettiest?" That sensation is important.
What advice would you give brides about their accessories?
Don't overaccessorize. It takes away from the look. Bring your accessories in, and we'll give you pointers. The coolest one I saw was this necklace that dangled in the back that a bride paired with a backless dress.
What about their undergarments?
No gown should require more than a G-string. And make sure that it's one size larger than what you usually wear: You don't want to have a muffin top. You're taking your vows with the love of your life. You want to feel sexy. The last thing you need is to have underwear that's too small.
And shoes?
You're standing for seven hours; have a second pair on hand to change into, flats or a low heel. And test them out for comfort beforehand. Walk around in them for a half an hour or so.
How do you incorporate an heirloom veil?
Bring it in during the consultation and tell your designer about it. Don't just assume the shades of white will match. A lot of times, brides fall in love with a dress so much they end up chucking the veil. If that happens, we'll incorporate the piece into the dress, so it's still a contribution, but not the focal point.
What should you sacrifice about your dress to stay within your budget?
Most brides tend to sacrifice other parts of their wedding for the gown. They usually upgrade. They say they want to spend $3,000. That's not a problem. We have a lot of gowns at that price. But then they see our couture collection, and they suddenly understand the difference between a $3,000 and a $10,000 gown. I don't have to say anything.
So what makes a $10,000 gown cost $10,000?
It's mostly the fabric. All of our gowns are 100 percent silk, and we work with a lot of expensive specialty fabric, such as Chantilly lace or organza. Also, the custom fit. There can be more than 80 pieces to a gown, and all 80 pieces have to be altered to fit.
What happens if you fall in love with a $10,000 dress but have only $3,000?
If you want a custom silhouette that costs $10,000 and can't afford it, we'll get you something similar in a made-to-order range. If you need more savings, we'll go down a notch in fabric.
What should you do when you pick up the dress?
Inspect that dress, and don't feel bad about mentioning every little thing. You invested a lot of time and money. You're entitled to ask questions and point out anything that you don't like. You should walk out happy. But as soon as you leave with that dress, you've lost all right to complain.
What should you look for in the inspection?
The fit and the feel. Is it twisting? Is the length comfortable? If it's too long, you might trip, so make sure you walk around. Is the zipper working? Are the buttons all on right? Scrutinize everything, try it on, make sure every aspect is perfect, and then put the dress away—it's not going to change from the time you do an inspection and leave to the time that you wear it—and don't touch it.
Should you change out of your dress after the ceremony?
I think it depends on what kind of garment you're doing. Brides that do a heavy dress probably want to change out of it. But if you have a dress that's comfortable and you spent a fortune on it, wear it to the bitter end, I say. Wear it to the bitter end!
chinese translated by mariee
original text on http://nymag.com/weddings/planner/features/2006winter/askexpert_gown/
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